My Aquarium Secrets

Paul Talbot asked:


The hit animated children’s movie ‘Finding Nemo’ has made the already popular Blue Tang one of the most popular saltwater aquarium fish around. In the movie, one of the main characters is a colourful, playful and forgetful Blue Tang named Dory. Since the release of this movie it seems every child wants their own saltwater aquarium with their own Dory and Nemo and every set of parents is faced with the decision of whether to let them have it. This movies has had a massive impact on the aquarium hobby because for the first time in the eyes of the general public fish are seen to have a personally.

So what are Dory and her other Tang friends really like?

A Tang is an oval shaped fish which is flat if viewed from front on. Tangs have a small single spine on each side of their caudal peduncle (just before their tail) that can be extended if required for self defence. Where a Tang has one or more larger spines which are not retractable in the same position, it belongs to the Surgeon family. When these fish fight, they will rapidly slap their tail towards their opponent trying to slash them with their spine.

The name Tangs or Surgeonfish is a common name given to many of these closely related fish species. It is commonly accepted that all Zebrasoma species are to be called Tang and all species with 2 spines are to be call Surgeonfish, while all the other single spined species seem to be called Tang or Surgeon depending on who you talk to e.g Blue Tang / Blue Surgeonfish.

In an aquarium Tangs are generally a very greedy fish, accepting a wide variety of foods ranging from flakes, pellets and seaweed to brine shrimp and more. These fish are often found grazing on rocks so one of their major benefits is controlling algae in an aquarium. As they will feed off algae from the rocks they are able to graze most of the day, so most species don’t need to be fed every day but some active species such as the Lipstick Surgeon which don’t graze as much, do need to be fed more often. Because these fish are so active it is important to ensure that they don’t lose condition due to under feeding which is common in many reef aquariums.

Tangs can be quite aggressive, mainly to their own kind or to similar shaped fish. As they are territorial, it is important to try to add any Tangs to your aquarium on the same day if possible. This way they have an equal chance of establishing territories. If you have to add a Tang to a tank that has established Tangs in it already, then it is a good idea to rearrange the rocks in order to disorientate the established fish. It is also safer to add more then one Tang at a time to divert the attention of any would be aggressors. These fish often don’t do well if kept in pairs as one will regularly dominate the other one they are best kept singularly or in groups. When one Tang is introduced to another it will usually take about three days for them to sort out their dominance hierarchy before they will get along. The more size, shape and colour difference the quicker this will tend to be. There is always a risk when adding a Tang to an aquarium with other Tangs as they may prove incompatible and might even kill each other.

Tangs are very prone to white spot disease as they have skin and not scales. It is a good idea to quarantine these fish using medications like copper sulfate or formalin for a period of around 2-3 weeks before they are introduced to a display tank to reduce the chase of them spreading disease to other fish in your tank.

It’s highly recommended to only introduce Tangs to a tank with a salinity level as low as 1.018. This low level eases osmotic stress and will reduce the risk of white spot infection. If you have a display aquarium, it is harmless to the corals to drop the salinity over a period of about a week and raise it slowly again over the next week once the fish have been introduced safely. The corals may not open up as well while the salt level is low but will return to their former glory once the salinity has been slowly returned.

Any time these fish do contract white spot, drop the salinity and ensure you feed food high in garlic. Most good aquarium shops will stock food high in garlic such as New Life Spectrum flakes or Seachem’s Garlic Guard solutions which can be added to other foods in order to reduce the susceptibility of a fish are to parasitic infections such as white spot.

Head and lateral line erosion is another common condition with Tangs, which tends to be a problem with fish that have been kept for many years on a low vitamin diet. Fish affected by this condition will have what appears to be small craters on its head or along its lateral line. Increasing the quality and variety of food offered and specifically targeting the amount of vitamin A in the diet can see this condition reverse. It is important to do a complete review of water quality and to monitor what the fish is being fed if over time you see the condition or colour of the fish deteriorate. Just because a fish is feeding well in the short term doesn’t mean it is getting what it needs in the long term. You should always monitor the condition of the fish over time and remember that there is no substitute for high quality foods.

Tangs can grow very quickly in an aquarium so it is important to allow adequate room and plenty of hiding places as adults range from 15-40cm. Tangs will spend a lot of their day foraging among the rocks and will very energetically dart around the aquarium and especially in and out of the rocks. A good cover of rocks is important to these fish to ensure they have a dark place they can escape into to feel safe if they are stressed. Having a dark safe place will allow a fish that is stressed to calm down faster thereby helping it to maintain its immune system and prevent it from developing diseases.

Some of the most popular Tangs are the Blue Tang, Powder Blue Tang, Sailfin Tang, Yellow Tang, Purple Tang, Brown Scopas Tang, Achilles Tang, Kole Tang, Lipstick Surgeon and Orange Shoulder Tang.

The Blue Tang Paracanthurus hepatus is also known as a Regal Tang and is a common salt water fish found on coral reefs often in large schools feeding on algae or zooplankton. The Blue Tang is without a doubt the most popular species of Tang, its bold colour and boisterously active nature making it a temptation for every hobbyist. This fish is very widely available, and is found on many reefs in the world, most commonly Australian. It is gluttonous, fast growing and it can get to about 30cm long.

This fish is well know for it choice of sleeping arrangements as it will often tuck into some of the most bazaar and uncomfortable looking positions when it retreats for the night, often at the same time each day regardless of whether the light is on or off. Another behavior common to this fish is a habit of lying on the bottom of the tank like it is dead. This is often pointed out to me by children while I am working in an aquarium retail store. The children will often say “Excuse me Sir, the fish over there is dead” and sure enough every second time it is just a Blue Tang practicing it’s strange resting habit. With a small tap on the glass, the children are happy to see the fish jump up hoping to get a feed.

Careful consideration must be given before adding this fish as it gets white spot very easily and therefore quarantining is highly recommended. A Blue Tang should only be introduced to a tank with a low salt level.

Once this fish has settled into the tank it can become a very hardy, long living fish that will bring you and the family years of enjoyment.

The Powder Blue Tang Acanthurus leucosternon is a fish rarely recommended as it is similar to the Blue Tang but its success rate in an aquarium is even lower. In many aspects, it is similar to keep to a Blue Tang but is more susceptible to white spot and will die very easily, partly because it is not found in Australia and is therefore imported, meaning that it is probably quite stressed by the time it even reaches an aquarium store. It is important that you only buy fish from a retailer that you are confident in and only deals in net caught fish as this fish comes from the Indo-Pacific where catching fish using cyanide is common.

A big warning to everyone wanting to get this fish is that once settled it can become very aggressive. Although it will not grow as fast as a Blue Tang it can reach up to 25cm.

The Achilles Tang Acanthurus achillies is one of the most sought after and asked about Tangs. Many people will enthusiastically request this fish until they find out how hard it is to get, how expensive it is and how hard it is to keep. In many aspects such as size and survival rate this fish is quite similar to the Powder Blue Tang only bigger, less aggressive and even harder to keep.

Its rarity coupled with its low survival rate and very high price means it is recommended only if a high quality and over sized UV sterilizer is run on any display tank housing this fish. The money saved not having to replace this fish after several attempts to keep it may pay for even the best of UV units, which will benefit your entire tank’s inhabitants.

The Sailfin Tang Zebrasoma veliferum is a true Tang and a great choice as an aquarium fish as it has great colours, is easy to keep and is not too expensive because it is easily available in Australia.

This fish can reach 40cm in length so it should be allowed adequate room to grow. As with all fish their growth will be stunted if kept in a small tank.

This fish is very similar to the more expensive and rarer Red Sea Sailfin Tang Zebrasoma desjardinii which is also a great fish to keep in an aquarium. The Red Sea version has darker stronger pattern but is not as common or as robust when first introduced.

It is rare to see a reef aquarium without a Yellow Tang Zebrasoma flavescens; this is because it is such a wonderful aquarium fish which loves to eat algae. Its striking yellow colour is unmistakable, along with its boisterous; gluttonous personality it is a must for every reef aquarium. You may recognise the Yellow Tang as “Bubbles” in the movie Finding Nemo, and its inclusion as a character has also seen the popularity of this Tang increase with the general public. It is common to have children in an aquarium store standing in front of a tank containing a Yellow Tang calling out to their parents “Look, look its Bubbles”.

Yellow Tangs most commonly come from Hawaii and can grow to 18 cm in length but normally much slower than other species of Tang. The colour of this fish can become quite patchy at night but it is bright yellow during the day.

This fish tends to be very easy to keep and I often find it my first choice when recommending a Tang for any aquarium.

The Brown Scopas Tang Zebrasoma scopas is rarely expensive and is very good to keep as it is very hardy and has all the same behaviours of the Yellow Tang but is a little more shy. This fish is commonly available in Australia but not so commonly sold because as the name suggests, it is not bold in colour, so it is not a prized fish in the hobby. This fish is very good for beginners and has lovely blue marking if you look up very close to the fish.

The Purple Tang Zebrasoma xanthurus is from the Red Sea is very similar to the Yellow Tang but much more expensive, rare and aggressive. Most aquarium stores are lucky to get these fish a couple of times a year and the stock sells very quickly as they are easy to keep and a real novelty to many patient aquarist.

If you wish to keep a Yellow Tang with a Purple Tang it is worth ensuring that the Yellow Tang is much larger than the Purple as the Purple will tend to be more aggressive. Although these fish are commonly kept together it does not always work as they are aggressive to any other fish that is a similar shape to them. Housing more then one of these fish per tank is not recommended.

This fish is very susceptible to head and lateral line erosion, so it is very important to offer it a high quality varied diet from the start. Though they are mostly safely kept in reef tanks, this fish does tend to be rougher on the corals than most Tangs. They will normally only bother a few large polyp species.

Not quite as rare is the subtle but beautiful Kole Tang Ctenochaetus strigosus also called the Yellow Eyed Bristle tooth. This fish is found all over the world, grows to 15cm in length and though rarely appreciated by beginners, is very popular with the intermediate hobbyist that is prepared to pay a bit more for a lovely fish. This fish is a great addition to most tanks as it rarely causes any trouble, eats lots of hair algae, gets along with most fish and is not too hard to keep.

This fish is a great catch any time it is available. You will rarely ever hear a bad word about them from anyone.

A large male Lipstick Surgeon Naso lituratus can get to 50cm and has long parallel whips on the top and bottom of its tail making it a very striking sight. This fish is very reef safe and will do best in a large aquarium; they even do well as a pair as they is rarely aggressive. This fish is often hard to keep in the long term because even when this fish does seem to be feeding, it may still die of starvation over time. It is a large, active fish that often consumes low nutrient foods so nutrition is the biggest concern for this fish. When this fish is stressed it will often swim erratically and not feed. This drain of energy is a very common cause of death with this species. Products like Stresscoat which contain Aloe Vera do tend to have a calming effect on these types of high stress fish. Any fish that swim erratically instead of hiding when they are stressed are always at a disadvantage in an aquarium. In order to maintain this fish for an extended period of time you need to ensure it is receiving adequate high quality foods, and feeding at least twice a day. There is a slightly more expensive Blonde version from Hawaii which has a yellow stripe on the top of the fish in place of the normal black one.

I will rarely recommend this fish, although it is a very good selling fish because of its charm. I do suggest that you make sure that the fish is feeding before you purchase it.

Finally, the Orange Shoulder Tang Acanthurus olivaceus is a very large, common, easy to keep, trouble free Tang from Australia and perfect for any aquarium. When this fish is small it exhibits a beautiful orange colour but as it grows it takes on more of a dull greenish colour with an orange shoulder. Despite their fading colour, these fish still sell quite well because they are normally reasonable priced when sold in Australia

There are many fish in the Tang and Surgeon family that are worth considering as additions to you tank. Size, hardiness, aggression, rarity and price are all factors which need to be taken into account in your decision making.

You can find out more information with my Instructional DVD available at http://www.exclusivefishfilms.com check it out!

Thank you & Enjoy,

Paul Talbot

Paul’s interest in fish species and aquariums started early in life. He has worked in the aquarium industry all his working life and has been able to transfer his passion as a hobbyist to his customers. His wealth of experience is an advantage to corporate and hobbyist customers alike. Paul has written many articles for both international and local magazines. He has bred many types of fish and propagated many types of coral. His Instructional Marine Aquarium DVD can be found at http://www.exclusivefishfilms.com



Roberto

sunrise_n_tn asked:


I put a Aqua Glo bulb (15 watt) in my aquarium of guppies, neon tetras, etc…I had it on last night & noticed that the fish didn’t seem to be as bright in color as they used to. Could they be fading? The water was a little cloudy because I’d just put in some waste control & it says it can fog the water for a bit. So could that be it or maybe my eyes playing tricks on me? Thanks!

Ron

Carl Strohmeyer asked:


It is always best to have as many different test kits as you can afford (as they apply to either freshwater or saltwater

I prefer to purchase my test kits separately as most master test kits duplicate test I do not need (high range and low range ph) and leave out ones I need such as kH and GH, or possibly Phosphate, Calcium, or Redox

Here is a list of FRESHWATER Test Kits, what they are for and in order of importance:

[1] Ammonia Test Kit ; Ammonia is very toxic even at low levels, should be kept at or near 0. Ammonia test kits cannot discern between highly toxic ammonia (NH4) and only slightly toxic ammonium (NH3). Products such as Prime , Ammolock, and Amquel will convert NH4 to NH3, so your toxic ammonia level will not test accurately after using one of these products. Ammonium (NH3) will convert to NH4 at higher pH levels, which why high ammonia levels as per test are much more toxic at higher pH.

[2] kH & GH Test Kit; you will notice I placed this above a pH test Kit, this due to the fact that a poor kH will make keeping a stable pH nearly impossible. Also Calcium (as tested in GH) is more important to fish health than many aquarists give credit (see my article: CALCIUM, KH, AND MAGNESIUM IN AQUARIUMS; How to maintain a Proper KH, why calcium and electrolytes are important).

*You want to maintain a KH & GH of around 60 ppm (around 2-3 dKH & dGH) for Discus, Rams, Cardinals, and other Amazon fish.

*A KH & GH of 80 -100 for most tropical fish including Gouramis, Bettas, Angelfish, ECT.

*A KH & GH of 100-200 for Goldfish, mollies, Platties, Guppies, ECT.

*A KH & GH of over 200 for Rift Lakes African Cichlids and Brackish fish such as Monos and Scats.

[3] pH High Range OR Low Range Test Kit; you should only need one or the other based on the type of aquarium you keep.

Does not stress over being exact about pH, as too of many aquarists go WAY overboard here! For example Discus generally do best around 6.5, however I know breeders of Discus using water with a pH well over 7.0

I recommend a High Range Test Kit for Goldfish and livebearers which should have a targeted pH of about 7.5-7.8. Rift Lake African cichlids should have a pH of over 8.0

I recommend a Low Range Test Kit for general community freshwater fish (6.8- 7.4) or Amazon River fish (under 6.8)

[4] Nitrate Test Kit; this test is important to know when to change your water (along with KH), as well as how well your general long term tank health is going. Nitrates will also show you how well your plants are consuming nitrogenous nutrients, and if you are vacuuming the aquarium properly such as removing all the mulm. Some filters such as Under Gravel in particular, and Wet Dry and Canister filters can become nitrate factories if not taken care of properly.

For most freshwater fish a nitrate level under 40 ppm is correct or above 15 ppm for planted aquariums.

[4] Nitrite Test Kit; you will notice I put it last, not because it is not important, only that if budget is a concern or time for testing is a factor, this parameter mirrors ammonia often within hours or days. Nitrite should be at or near 0.

[5] Phosphate Test Kit; generally only necessary in planted aquariums where large amounts of ‘ferts’ (fertilizer) are added or if you have uncontrollable algae growth. This test kit is often more important for ponds where rain water can wash debris with high phosphate content into the pond.

Your aquarium (or pond) should have phosphate levels as close to 0 as possible.

[6] Redox Meter; generally this water parameter will take of itself provided you perform proper aquarium husbandry including, regular water changes with properly ionized water, you maintain a GH and KH level of at least 50 ppm (I find 80 ppm better). This said, this is a good parameter to check if you are having problems with Cyanobacteria (Blue Green Algae) or if you are having unexplained problems and every other test is correct (providing you do not have an unknown disease). I recommend every aquarist be at least familiar with the Redox Potential, here is an in depth article about aquarium Redox: “The Redox Potential in Aquariums (& Ponds) and how it relates to proper aquatic health” . You can use Methylene Blue according to standard dosage to your aquarium water (remove the water for this test), and it stays a brilliant blue, you probably have a positive Redox. If the color dissipates at all (even the slightest) you probably have a reducing number. This test in no way replaces the accuracy of Redox meter, but it is a simple way to get a handle on your aquariums Redox health.

Your aquarium Redox should be around -300 mV.

SALTWATER;

The list remains similar and I will bypass descriptions that are in common with freshwater test kits.

[1] Ammonia Test Kit; this should be 0 as in FW

[2] KH Test Kit; you do not need a GH Test Kit for saltwater. KH (or alkalinity as is called in marine aquariums) should be over 240 ppm (13 dKH)

[3] PH High Range Test Kit; your pH should be between 8.2 - 8.4

[4] Hydrometer; this instrument tests the specific gravity of aquarium water (in simple terms the amount of salts). There are two types; the floating glass hydrometers which are more fragile, but also more accurate or the simple needle hydrometer that you fill with water. It is important with both types of hydrometers to clean these with white vinegar (then rinse thoroughly) to prevent hard water buildup which will then cause inaccurate readings.

[4] Nitrate Test Kit; Nitrates are best under 40 for marine fish aquariums and under 20 (even less if possible) for reef aquariums

[5] Calcium Test Kit; this takes the place of the GH Test Kit in freshwater.

Calcium is important to ALL marine life (this includes freshwater too as it is often sadly overlooked), however it is absolutely essential for proper coral growth in marine aquariums. Bio-availability is also essential, Sea Chem Reef Calcium Polygluconate is probably one of the best, most bio-available calcium supplements available for marine aquariums.

Your marine Calcium levels should be between 400-450 ppm

[6] Nitrite Test Kit; this should be 0 as in FW

[7] Magnesium Test Kit; Magnesium is an essential part of chlorophyll, which is necessary for photosynthesis, plants, including algae and the corals. Maintaining a correct magnesium concentration is very important, and is indirectly responsible for fast coral and calcareous algae growth by virtue of making the maintenance of correct calcium and alkalinity figures possible. Magnesium is depleted by algae and by the use of excessive Kalkwasser. Magnesium is what binds Calcium Carbonate in solution, if levels are low useable calcium levels will also drop. Poor choices of Marine Buffers can further exasperate this problem, this why I STRONGLY recommend Sea Chem Marine Buffer for adjusting alkalinity in marine aquariums (and EVEN freshwater aquariums) as this product has Magnesium, Calcium, and sodium bicarbonate in the proper ratios.

Magnesium levels in marine aquariums should be between 1200 and 1400 ppm.

[8] Redox Meter; as in freshwater, I recommend -300 mV, except Redox is more important in marine aquariums.

[9] Phosphate Test Kit; as in freshwater this should near 0. High phosphate levels in marine aquariums can play havoc with the health and growth of live coral (Phosphates can block the absorption of important minerals)

For the Full Article, icluding pictures and more links, please visit the site in the resource box below.



Herbert

Lisa Marie asked:


The leaves on some of the silk plants in my aquarium are turning brown, along with some of the gravel. It’s very spotty but I notice more and more brown every day. The aquarium is filtered, not over stocked, I do 25% water changes every week, etc. Everything is otherwise fine. What could be causing this and what can I do to stop it?

Agnes

Carl Strohmeyer asked:


AQUARIUM:

Start with as large an aquarium as you can afford. There is a very BASIC priciple (this only applies to beginners), that is to have 1-2 inches of NARROW bodied fish per FILTERED aquarium gallon. Goldfish are dirty and fatter, so I would triple this with them (3″). This also only applies to a standard rectangular aquarium.

Obviously longer fish need more tank width and length. I would decrease the amount of fish proportional to the gallons in a tall aquarium or hexagon aquarium.

Remember, many fish purchased can grow much larger than your original purchase size (ex: goldfish), so keep this in mind too.

FILTERS:

I always recommend two filters minimum per aquarium for redundancy and for improved biological (denitrifying) filtration. For a small aquarium, a combination of a hang on the back and a sponge filter. Or a sponge filter and an internal power filter. You want to make sure and rinse your sponge or cartridge out in used aquarium water to maintain your beneficial bacteria for bio filtration.

Other filters of note include canister, wet/dry, under gravel, and fluidized bed.

There are four types of filtration:

Biological; the removal of nitrogenous waste (ammonia, ECT), which is the most important type.

Mechanical; the removal of larger debris (organic and inorganic) before it can go through the nitrogen cycle (organic)

Chemical; The removal of chemical contamination via carbon, zeolite or many other products. This becomes less important in a healthy, established aquarium.

Germacidal; The use of UVC or ozone to kill disease pathogens and control the Redox potential.

HEATER:

Most tropical fish do well at a temperature between 76 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. (Discus prefer warmer).

Goldfish do not need a heater.

I recommend 25 watts for every 10 degrees of ambient temperature you need to raise your aquarium temperature. EX: If your home is 68 degrees and you have a 40 gallon aquarium, to reach a temperature of 78 degrees you would need a 100 watt heater.

BIO-CYCLING:

Your aquarium will not be at peak biological filtration for 6 weeks (or more). To start your biological filtration, there are many cycling products available, such “Cycle” by Hagen. My success with these products is mixed at best, it is very difficult for the aerobic bacteria that are needed for cycling your aquarium to live in a sealed container kept at room temperature, as they die very quickly without oxygen.

I prefer to add gravel and/or used filter sponge or cartridge from another aquarium.

This method of adding media is much faster (you still have to take it slow), and provides all the necessary bacteria, the only negative is adding disease pathogens to your aquarium, but I have rarely encountered this problem.

We used this method for our Aquarium Maintenance route for years and never lost a fish to Ammonia or nitrite poisoning.

Another method is fishless cycling where un-scented ammonia is poured into the aquarium (3-5 drops per gallon pure ammonia) so as to bring your ammonia level to 4-5 ppm. Then it takes about 3-8 weeks for the aquarium to cycle. Although this method is growing in popularity, I do not recommend it, not because it does not work (it does), but because human nature is to want to add fish sooner than the 3-8 weeks it takes for this method.

The method of adding media is much faster (you still have to take it slow), and provides all the necessary bacteria, the only negative is adding disease pathogens to your aquarium, but I have rarely encountered this problem.

Cycling is what is referred to as the Nitrogen cycle. Waste (nitrogenous) from the fish is broken down first from ammonia (NH3, the most toxic) to nitrites (NO2, less toxic) to nitrates (NO3, least toxic- but high amounts can stunt fish growth and lower disease resistance).

At a pH of 6.5, NH3 (ammonia) converts to NH4 (ammonia) which is basically non-toxic to most fish (many ammonia removing chemicals to a similar ion change, as they do NOT actually remove ammonia). If you have plants in your aquarium they will directly consume the ammonia (especially hornwort), thus rendering the NO2 (nitrite) part of the nitrogen cycle null. The danger here is if your pH climbs above 6.5 the ammonia can change to much more toxic NH3 and the aerobic bacteria needed for nitrite consumption will be sparse.

For more about th nitrogen cycling, see this article: AQUARIUM NITROGEN CYCLE

LIVE PLANTS:

Live plants are desirable in my opinion, but many artificial plants can look quite realistic when properly arranged or used in conjunction with live plants. For a beginner live plants are more difficult, but not a lot.

The benefits of live plants are they are great at nitrate removal and keep a natural balance to the aquarium, removing CO2 and adding oxygen (only during daylight). Hornwort is an excellent plant for nitrate removal (even ammonia removal), and is relatively easy to grow. Banana plants (when available) are also a very easy plant.

Here is a list of “easy” beginner plants:

Compacta swords, hornwort, Red wendtii, spiral valis, dwarf subulata, Hygro, Java fern regular or lace.

Be careful with many fish that will “mow down” your plants such as: Silver Dollars, most African cichlids, and even goldfish.

For healthy plants I suggest a substrate of #00 sand mixed with laterite about 3-5 cm deep with a layer of #3 gravel on top about 2 cm deep. This combination works well for plant roots, ease of vacuuming the top layer ONLY (where plant roots are), and for better bio filtration. You can substitute laterite with a sandy top soil (although usually not as good a source of iron), by preparing the soil thus; Gather sandy top soil, add water with a 10/1 bleach solution, mix for a couple of minutes, then rinse (with a de-chlorinator for first rinse) until the water runs relatively clear. The sand that is left is what you mix with your plant roots.

FEEDING:

I recommend feeding high quality fish and plant based foods. Quality ingredients include: spirulina, fish meal, FD Brine Shrimp, shrimp meal, Vitamin C & E, lobster shell.

Fish cannot digest proteins from beef well, and fish get most their energy requirements from fats. Some quality foods include: Omega, Spirulina 20, Ocean Nutrition, Hikari, Sanyu.

Feed you fish two to three times per day what they will consume in three minutes.

Feeding foods high in poor quality proteins can increase your nitrate levels, as an essential ingredient in protein is nitrogen, and if unusable by the fish, it is excreted, entering into the nitrogen cycle.

CLEANING:

You should try and have a schedule of changing 20% (or more) of your water every week. I recommend using a gravel vacuum, you need not remove the fish while using a gravel vacuum. Make sure the water you add back in is the same temperature and ph, and has no chlorine or chloramines.

CHEMISTRY:

Keep your ammonia level at 0, your nitrite at 0, your nitrates below 20-30, and your KH above 80 ppm. Ph depends very much on the fish you are keeping. Discus prefer under a ph below 7.0, while Mbuna African cichlids prefer above 8.0

A very general ph of 7.2 -7.5 works for many community fish. Crushed Coral and/or Wonder Shells can help maintain a high pH when you desire an aquarium with a higher pH, KH, & GH, especially where tap or well water is very acidic (Wonder Shells are much faster at dissolving to the desired KH and add electrolytes crushed coral does not!).

For a lower pH in aquariums where the tap water used is very high (usually 7.8 or above), I have used blends of RO (Reverse Osmosis) water and tap water. The ratio varies with the tap water pH, KH, & GH and the water conditions I want to achieve. With Discus it can be as high as 75% RO. Then to maintain these conditions I use peat in my filters. Note that GH does not affect pH, and magnesium (a major ingredient of GH) is important to fish metabolism. Also note that calcium which is the main factor in KH (which does affect pH!) is also important for fish metabolism and fish health and healing. With the above method of using RO (or DI) water in a blend with tap water and peat, I have still been able to maintain a KH above 80 ppm (for proper calcium absorption), sometimes with additives such Wonder Shells or Calcium Polygluconate.

CONCLUSION:

This is only very general information, there is much more in depth articles about each of these subjects and more available. But these are sound principles to follow, based on 27+ years of aquarium maintenance experience. As new and better methods become available, I regularly update my information to reflect this.

For my more in depth full article:

Aquarium Information



Stephanie

Low Jeremy asked:


You need not to purchase the most expensive kinds of fish just to set up the best aquarium. This can be luxurious already. What you need to know is the proper way of maintaining your aquarium to make it pleasing to the eyes at all times.

Besides all other aquarium supplies, the fish is the most important. It cannot be called an aquarium without the species that will swim into it. This can come in varying types depending on the aquarium you put up.

Aquarium fish can be purchased in extraordinary color patterns. It comes in red, white, green, purple and even blue. In most cases, the male fish has brighter color and longer fins than the female fish. Typically, the more vibrant is the better because it can add appeal inside the aquarium.

There is a specific lifespan for the fish. However, it can be changed through your maintenance. There are times that fish has longer lifespan but due to your negligence, it can be shorten to months instead of years. This will just be a waste of money so better to take note of this factor.

Below are some reminders for proficient care of your aquarium fish:

1. Have regular check for the unnecessary things that may fall into the aquarium.

Cleanliness is very essential for your maintenance. This will not concern the pleasing appeal of the aquarium alone but most particularly the health of the species residing in the habitat. You can use filtration supply on this matter. Cleaning habit can be done weekly or you can do it gradually if you see some falling food remains at the top of the aquarium.

2. Beware from buying aggressive species.

Peaceful types of fish are more advisable because aggressive specie can affect the entire habitat. One can kill the other. Prevent this scenario to happen because you can probably end up with your aquarium to nothing.

3. Do not overfeed the aquarium fish.

Some fish are only required to be fed once a day although others are for twice. Overfeeding is not helpful nor will it make your fish grow larger instantly. Many cases have shown that it can cause death to your fish.

4. When changing the water, add product that will remove chlorine in the water.

Chlorine can be toxicant for your fish. You can purchase products from pet stores in order to eliminate the amount of chlorine in the water.

If you care for your fish, then better follow the advice that will cater your aquarium fish needs. Everybody understands the reason why most plants can be seen in many aquariums. Healthy plants and their lush are beautiful to look at when they are in an aquarium. They also create a natural setting in the aquarium.

Most of the fishes feel secure, less stressed and safe whenever they have plants to hide in. Some species of fish do not survive in an aquarium without any plants.

Aquarium plants will not only give the fishes a helpful shelter and make your aquarium look attractive but they can maintain the quality of the water as well. Plants and fish both exist on the wild and they will surely match well in your aquarium.

The wastes discharged by the fish contain compounds that are useful for the plant’s nutrition. Therefore, the organic wastes can be contained in the plants instead of seeing them float in the water. The plants must be pruned regularly and the dead parts must be eliminated from the aquarium ASAP.

Not only that, the aquarium plants will also provide a shelter to many micro organisms which are useful for the ecology and environment of the aquarium. In addition, plants have also the capacity to inhabit the growth of ugly algae since algae and plants compete for similar nutrients.

Most species of fish will never reproduce in an aquarium without plants. This is because some species need plants for them to feel secured enough to reproduce, while other species need the leaves of the plants to place their eggs in. An abundantly planted aquarium will also enhance the survival growth of the fry especially if you want to increase the number of fry in a similar aquarium like with the adult fish.

However, we all know that plants rely too much to light and photosynthesis. An aquarium with no plants will only need little. But if you are planning to have an abundant number of plants in your aquarium, you will be required to put new lights. A fluorescent light will be better to your planted aquarium, make sure that they are made especially for aquariums.

If you are a beginner, the plant species that will be suitable for you are the Java Moss and the Java Fern. These are strong plants that can survive in water hardiness and pH values. They can even be placed in a brackish aquarium like the Molly aquarium.

Aquarium plants are very important to the survival of most fishes in the aquarium. It does not matter what aquarium plant you choose, the important thing is you know how to maintain your aquarium as naturally as the fishes and plants habitat.



Robin

suman87 asked:


I have 3 ft aquarium and want to buy a 6 ft aquarium.

Sylvia

Renee asked:


I’m thinking about getting a small snail to put in my aquarium with my goldfish, but does a snail actually help with anything in the aquarium? what do they eat?
I don’t have any real plants in the aquarium, just the one fake one.

Lois

Em K asked:


i just bought a 10 gal aquarium and the filter is very noisy. i was wondering if it would be fine to turn it off at night and keep it running during the day.

Josephine

Douglas Taylor asked:


If you are thinking of starting an aquarium, then a few basic facts are essential. Deciding whether you want to have a saltwater or freshwater aquarium is the first step. Because of the many different types of freshwater aquarium fish, this tends to be the most popular choice as a starting point for this wonderful hobby.

There are two types of freshwater aquarium fish from which to choose, coldwater and tropical. Because the coldwater aquarium needs less in the way of equipment, heaters for example, they are a common starting point.

Some of the more popular types of freshwater aquarium fish for coldwater tanks are goldfish, koi and some of the tetra fish species.

But of the types of freshwater aquarium fish, the most sought after by far are tropical fish. These colorful and beautiful fish need a heated aquarium to survive and therefore cost a little more to maintain, but the sheer beauty of some of them make the expense worthwhile.

If these are the types of freshwater aquarium fish you decide to keep, then the choices you make can make this a cheap and satisfying hobby or a very expensive one indeed!

When you’re first setting up your freshwater aquarium it’s a good idea to buy young and healthy fish to start off with. If you choose to add more mature fish as you become more established, that’s fine as long as your aquarium has had time to stabilize.

Selecting the proper species of fish is essential to the success of your aquarium. The types of freshwater aquarium fish for the tropical tank should be hardy and able to withstand variations and fluctuations of ammonia and nitrite as your aquarium becomes established.

Without proper guidance of an expert to guide you in which types of freshwater aquarium fish to introduce into your tank initially, your beautiful new acquisitions could very soon become ill and die.

Some recommendations for the types of freshwater aquarium fish to start off your tropical tank with include Tetras, Danios, Barbs or Cichlids.

When choosing tetra fish for starting up your aquarium, choose those with round; large bodies over the thin, torpedo shaped ones such as neon tetras as these tend to be hardier.

Danios are an excellent type of freshwater aquarium fish. They include zebra danios, leopard danios and giant danios.

Barbs are a good choice of tropical fish for the beginner although you have to be careful about the fish you put them in with as they can a bit temperamental and nip the slower moving fish.

Cichlids are a very large and diverse group of tropical fish and African cichlids are an excellent choice for starting a new aquarium, but should not be kept with other fish, as they can be aggressive.

As there are countless types of freshwater aquarium fish from which to choose each with their own behavior patterns, it is always a good idea to take the advice of a professional before making your choices.



Jay